Easy fix for Logitech MX Revolution not charging
17th December, 2007, 76
About the author
Ben Vallack is a web developer and filmmaker.
Tags: logitech,
mouse,
mx revolution,
not charging
A little while ago it appeared that my Logitech MX Revolution had stopped charging. It didn't seem to recognize that it was placed on the charger. After almost giving up it occurred to me to check the contacts were clear on the underside of the mouse. I just scrapped them with my finger nail which seemed to shine them up a bit. It actually only seemed that the one on the right needed any cleaning, possibly something to do with it being positive or negative.
Anyway, this fixed the problem and it now charges fine. I wouldn't have considered writing about this except for the fact that a friend of mine was also complaining about a Logitech mouse not charging and this fixed the problem for him too.
Update: It looks like all the commenters below have discovered a strange alternative way to get the mouse to start charging - give it a bit of a slam! Obviously at your own risk!


Mr. 47(NL)
25th December, 2007
Filip
23rd March, 2008
OsoMarron
29th November, 2008
Chris
12th December, 2008
Kalle Sandberg
14th December, 2008
StuPC
24th December, 2008
Wojtek
16th January, 2009
sergiodongala
20th January, 2009
ComputerNerd
24th January, 2009
ROBERT HURL
7th February, 2009
RPD
14th February, 2009
Dave McLaughlin
16th February, 2009
Betty Bundoc
17th February, 2009
The_Dragon_No1
19th February, 2009
Slammy
19th February, 2009
Scott Sutherland
27th February, 2009
Scott Sutherland
27th February, 2009
Scott Sutherland
27th February, 2009
Geoff
7th March, 2009
Mark
16th March, 2009
haphazard
22nd March, 2009
woot
4th April, 2009
Igor
16th April, 2009
Stupid Technical Support Logitech for CIS countries via Poland (
Ron
27th April, 2009
Josh
27th April, 2009
Angie
18th May, 2009
Kev
31st May, 2009
Rory Kinsella
10th June, 2009
I slammed my £60 MX on the desk and hey presto it is charging! Cheers Guys!!
Daniel
15th June, 2009
Thanks y'all!
Todd
28th June, 2009
monoblocks
5th July, 2009
Socalsmith
7th July, 2009
Charles
11th July, 2009
West
12th August, 2009
Sergios
16th August, 2009
Jon
19th August, 2009
Luke
21st August, 2009
Banging your mouse just slightly moves the internal battery to circuit connections and any dust or dirt between the connections. So you might get a quick fix or just bash your mouse and break something else.
It's best to take the mouse apart and clean the three contacts on the battery, and the three spring loaded contact points with a mild solvent like isopropyl alcohol which will evaporate and not cause a short when you re-assemble.
Also take note that when you take apart the mouse there is a ribbon that connects to the upper half of the mouse to the base. At the back of the top part of the mouse is a small contact point that completes a circuit by touching one of the charging contacts on the inside of the lower portion of the mouse.
This is where a lot of dust and dirt easily accumulates and might be the most common root of the charging problem because it isn't spring loaded and not a very large contact surface.
I did this simple cleaning and after turning back on my mouse noticed a jump from one bar to two when I turned it back on. Letting me know power flow was less impeded by any resistance. Then I put it on the charger and went through a full charging cycle.
So this is a tested and proven method. Only thing difficult is remounting the silicon feet. If you were very careful in removing them you should still have the double sided adhesive.
If not a good double sided adhesive sheet or most likely basic tape from 3m and a thin spacing material like craft paper or stiff fiber board will work great after you clean up the feet and their recesses.
Tiziano from italy
17th September, 2009
flash
18th September, 2009
When I have disassembled the mouse have found out that the battery is on a place. I have cleaned all contacts and have checked up solder. All is normal, but the mouse still doesn't work: (
Think it's necessary to me to buy the new battery?
happy with his mouse
26th September, 2009
SLAMMING WORKS !
Leooow
29th September, 2009
Andy Calnan
9th October, 2009
Renwick Hurst
10th October, 2009
vicmpen
17th October, 2009
MIKE
5th November, 2009
Matt Cheney
6th November, 2009
John
6th November, 2009
Brian
7th November, 2009
Adam
9th November, 2009
Luke
16th November, 2009
Luckily Logitech sells the exact Lion battery you need $5. It's the same replacement battery you find for the G7 cordless mouse and it's identical to the one found in the MX Revolution. You can find it under support replacement parts for the G7 on the Logitech site.
For $10 in total and some time I should get years more use out of this mouse. Good as new.
Andy
22nd November, 2009
Fitted a 30 ohm resistor into the charger (no effect), and then out of desperation, took the mouse apart, took the battery out, cleaned the contacts and reinserted it.
The mouse has been charging happily for a couple of hours and is now 60% charged. Woo!
Mike Papa
27th December, 2009
Taylor
30th December, 2009
Now the left mouse button won't stay depressed when I push it. I have to admit that this mouse has served me well for quite a while now and with heavy gaming use but now it's quite annoying that my £60 mouse won't "drag" anything, instead it does a double click when I try. I can "sometimes" get it to drag but rarely.
Anyone else experienced this at all, or anyone know a solution?
nythomas1
30th December, 2009
My problem was similar to Chris'. While charging, the green lights would go up gradually but fall back on to a blinking red light. And then start again at green. At first I thought my battery was so depleted that it was taking 2 hours to get out of the red, which happens with my blackberry curve. But after that time i started googling and found this blog. As usual the comments are more useful than the blog itself.
So conclusion: cleaning and moderate flat desk-slam worked perfectly. My lights turned green and don't go back to red.
Peter
2nd January, 2010
Marc
13th January, 2010
I cannot just go out and buy a new mouse, sending out for service would take a month so I tried the slam, you don’t have to do a full rage slam, just a frustrated flat slam or three did the trick.
Note: You might want to wait until everyone else is out of the office or announce your intentions beforehand.
Jay
16th January, 2010
Thanks to the guys who gave the advice in number 12 and 37 too!
Awesome. I was really about to get PO'd of having to buy another $150 mouse and/or having to bitch at Logitech. lol. Now I can just get back to work.
Cheers!
Jay
marek
17th January, 2010
jaro
22nd January, 2010
Rich V
23rd January, 2010
HK
25th January, 2010
I opened it up per comment 12, and I just took out the battery connection, gave it a little swipe with some alcohol, and put it back in. Works perfect again.
BUT
I was not very gentle in taking off the mouse "feet"/"skates" and they were ruined, which basically made the mouse not very usable for gaming.
So, if you do this, Logi won't sell you replacement feet. I found these,
ttp://www.corepad.com/index.php?pagina=artikel&id=44
and
http://www.slicksurf.com/
Might help.
Stefan
13th February, 2010
Chuck
14th March, 2010
Abs for no abs
25th March, 2010
for all the people that couldnt fix with the slaming or cleaing listen up...
•Philips Head Screw Driver
•Wire Strippers/Cutters
•3 10 Ohm Resistors (or one 30 Ohm would work)
•Solder and Soldering Iron
•Shrink Tubing/Electrical Tape
1. grab ur dock (unplug it off course)
2. find the x marked spots underneth the cradle
3. open it up (Philips Head Screw Driver)
4. there should be two little Philips screws holding the curcit board in place
5. now listen carefully there are two version of this dock
. two black cabels stright from the adapter
. a little connection attching the two wires comming from the Adpater
carefuly deattch the postive side and add the 30omhs resistor (although 25 omhs will work but a much slower rate)
6. solder the resistor and the positive wire togeather (tape up the exposed metal****** MAKE SURE U DO) or u can twist the wires together although i do not recommed it
7. screw the screws back into place (if u do not wanna to get in a mess then email me abhi_the_man@hotmail.com)
8. I do not take any reponsiblity for damage this process may cause (in saying so i have had no problems listed from pervisous people using this method)
9. if u do not understand read the voltage rating on the adapters wire and on the back of the mouse.
guys i am more then willing to help email me for more questions
flavio
31st March, 2010
triggle
14th April, 2010
30 Ohms did not work for me. It gave the red flashing light then the charge bars and repeated. I increased to 63 Ohms and it did work. Now there is no red light when charging.
Just charging it now so in a day's time I'll know more.
seth
24th April, 2010
Slamming WORKED! i love you.
Remi
2nd July, 2010
Wayne Hodkinson
10th July, 2010
Great because I have loads of work to do :)
Larry Eeles
14th July, 2010
Green Gecko
14th July, 2010
I had a different fix to others because I seem to have the very latest version of this mouse. There are no contact points for the battery - it's now hardwired to a 3-pin socket on a red/yellow/black twisted cable, connected to the main board, so of course the "slamming" trick would never work for me, as it does for others by reseating the battery on the contacts slightly or knocking loose some dust.
I used a flat-head screwdriver to tease off the lowermost two feet on the bottom of the mouse and the large one at the top. Try to do this evenly and slowly so you don't ruin the feet, as you can easily stick them back on after-ward with some glue. You'll need a 2.4 Phillips screwdriver to remove the four screws.
Once the screws are out you should be able to just lift the mouse apart but BE VERY CAREFUL at this point as there is a thin and fragile RIBBON CABLE connecting the top and bottom half. Ribbon cables are extremely easy to tear and are nearly always impossible to replace. Breaking this cable will kill the mouse (when it's not connected the mouse won't turn on or charge). Carefully lay the top half of the mouse to one side of the bottom half and look where the ribbon is connected to the base. There are two black notches either side of the socket for this cable - carefully tease upward one side and then the other, then the other side etc. in a see-saw manner, prising with a flat-head screwdriver. This black notch thing just secures the cable in place - it doesn't click or swing off or anything.
Once the two halves are seperated, I could only see two fault points with this mouse. One, ensure the power cable for the battery is securely connected. To be extra sure, tease it out with some tweezers or flat-head screwdriver, give it it a dusting with a brush, and reconnect it firmly.
Second, something no-one has mentioned, is I noticed small copper contacts in three places - around centre-left on the base (where the thumbwheel fits), and on the top half's underside, one contact at the bottom and another under the opening for the scroll wheel. I noticed mine were dirty with black crud and dust. I think what these must be are contacts for electrical grounding, so thinking they might be screwing with electrical flow, I gave them a good cleaning and re-assembled the mice.
When re-assembling again BE CAREFUL with the ribbon cable - I can't stress this enough as I've ruined a Logitech G15 and a DV camcorder by accidentally tearing these while trying to fix them. In a position you think is safe to not stress/pull the cable, re-insert the cable with the cable's golden contacts facing you / away from the mouse base, and tease the black securing wedges back down to hold the cable in. Then put the two halves back together and screw up the mouse.
Before bothering to stick back on the feet, whack the charger on the mouse. If yours is like mine you should be happy to see the mouse charging properly again (make sure it's switched off - this mouse should be off when charging), with the green light flashing once, then escalating based on the amount of charge. Mine has been charging happily for about an hour now and has one light constantly lit - so it's working! :)
Give it a few hours and if it's all okay stick back on your feet.
I hope this helps anyone else trying to fix a recent MX Revolution as many of these suggestions are now out of date after Logitech's evident attempts to improve the mouse over the years.
If it helps, here's my model info:
Mouse M/N: M-RBQ124
P/N: 810-000442
PID: LZ847AC
Charger M/N: L-LN13
P/N: 810-000400
PID: LZ829AC
It's interesting to note, whereas my older Revolution charger (which works fine) has a removable power supply, this one is hardwired with a module fitted in the cable, probably a ferrite core (to reduce EMI/interference) or it could contain the resistor some people have built into their chargers.
Purchased in the UK in 2009.
Green Gecko
14th July, 2010
http://www.cooperbills.com/Projects/MXRevolution/
However this requires a significant mod to your charge base, requiring soldering, and I wouldn't recommend trying it - especially on more recent models where Logitech may have made a similar fix already - with trying slamming/cleaning/reconnecting the battery cable first.
the author
14th July, 2010
Green Gecko
14th July, 2010
Just thought I would post an update that my MX Rev has since fully charged. Setpoint says so and gives an estimate of 18 days battery life!! I've never seen it that high before. :)
I guess it's possible the dirt even got in there during manufacture and it was never actually working to begin with..
Houston
27th July, 2010
Its actually just a frustrated flat tap, not an all out SLAM.
Kevin
24th August, 2010
thank you.